I mixed in all in the forms myself (no concrete truck). The footer/collar wall is 1'x'1' of poured concrete with several 1/2" rebar runs at different heights in the pour. It is 2' above ground (2 rows of blocks) and 6' in ground. Our pond is 10'x16'x8' and uses liner due to budget contraints. Have no experience but am suspicious of claim. If you decide not to do this, add more layers of bond beam blocks.ħ. I would use alternating pattern and smooth after. The ones we get here have two cuts and we just tap with hammer to remove piece. You can make them easily with a masonry blade in a skill saw. You should be able to find bond beam blocks. I would put a few extra rows in common filter-pond wall (1/3, 2/3 up wall). Do not get to much mortar inside blocks as it will make it more difficult to fill with concrete.ĥ. It will hold everything strait while filling with concrete. Rent a concrete vibrator when filling (tube type that will slide inside blocks).Ĥ. Filling the blocks with concrete will give the strength needed to hold the pond together. You can pour the filter pit floor at same time if same depth.ģ. Do not forget to put vertical rebar to extend into black wall. Fore 3/8" rebar, upper and lower on each side. I would add some extra rows of bond beams in this wall.Ģ. Your wall is curved witch will be much stronger than a strait wall. Wayne, wants to build a pond that will last as long as the house.ġ. I'm looking forward to seeing your responses. For example, I can see building a footer-supported traditional cinder block alternating-pattern wall with vertical rebar and bond beam, with cement filled voids, then with a layer of Surewall cement on the pond side of the wall. My ultra conservative side would want to waaay over design and construct the wall, but it would take significantly more time to do it, and I don't want to go overboard with strengthening the wall if it is all overkill. Finally, I have seen a product by Quickrete called "Surewall" (I think that is the name) which claims that by dry stacking blocks and then mortaring this product on the surface of the wall, the wall is actually stronger than traditional construction with cement used to fill the voids. Is the traditional alternating pattern from course to course necessary since it ties the courses together once the voids are filled with concrete? Or can the curved walls be built using blocks on top of each other to avoid the basket weave and non-smooth wall.ħ. If it is necessary to chip or cut the block, is the best way to do it with a mallet and chisel?Ħ. Does the v notches used to imbed the bond beam rebar into the cinder block have to be chipped into regular block, or do you buy custom blocks for this? The only bond beam specialty block I've seen are solid blocks with a large v notch on top, which is not what I am looking for since this does not tie in to the rest of the cinder block wall as well. "Bond Beam" rebar that travels the length of the wall would probably be a good idea for the base and the top of the wall. Is this a recommended construction technique, or is it necessary to "butter" the cinder blocks with cement while laying them down?ĥ. Some people dry stack the cinder blocks, then pour in the cement in the voids. I would think cinder block which would allow rebar reinforcing?Ĥ. Which provides better strength, especially in a design like mine. But in the U.K., it seems solid cement blocks stacked short side vertical are more common. In the US, cinder blocks (rectangle with two holes) seems to be prevalent. How thick does the footer need to be? How much rebar and what rebar pattern have you used?ģ. Is this design ok, or is it flawed? Does anyone else have a pond that shares a wall with the filter pit like I am planning?Ģ. To start the discussion, here are some general questions.ġ. I've seen a lot of pond construction threads and websites, and there is a lot of variability in how different people have built ponds. That 5-6 ft tall wall has air (and me!) on one side and about 10,000 gallons of water on the other side! I want to make sure the wall is built right, and will be able to carry this load, especially since this is my first major masonry project. The pit is also being built pretty close to the house, about 3 feet away. The pit and pond will be partially above ground (~2ft) and the rest below ground (3 to 4 ft). The filter pit will be right next to the pond, and the two structures share a common curved wall. The general design of the pond can be found on this thread:
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Im thinking its the same trouble and needs to be lower in the boiler. I have to set the aqustat to 125 to start circulating when the boiler reads 150/160. The aqustat to start the circulator is also connected via a barrel connector and sets it high. I removed the T and its now the gauge on the boiler is reading much higher, similar to the exit water temp now. With that it wasn't reading over 140, even though the water coming out was at 220. Part of my problem Ive discovered is the gauge for temp and pressure on the marathon was connected via a T and had a air release valve on it. What temp do you have the marathon boiler circulator aqustat temp set at? I was thinking of having mine start at 150. I fired it up again tonight with a plug where the Samson goes and got it up to 170, unfortunatly my flue temp was getting pretty hot, over 600, with a wood stove I tried to stay under 500, what flue temp should I expect to be running to get the marathon boiler up to the 180-200 range? Luckly, a contact at Samson in Canada got back to me and I was able to order it from them for $77 US dollars and shipping. Hi thanks when I get my new Samson I will set it up as you recommend. So, anyone know about these Ammark draft controllers? Can I get a replacement? Can I take it off and clean/test it? I have inline temp gauges on the wood boiler output and the input and the output got up to 220 deg and the return was coming back at 215 so the wood boiler should be at least 215 deg I would think, but the temp gauge on the wood boiler was reading 160 max.ģrd - I did get a ghost flow through the first floor heat zone so I do think ill need to change that circulator out for one with an IFC. It heated up fine, the circulator kicked off and I got hot water flowing through the oil boiler (set in series now) and at about 9am we had hot water to shower with, COOL!īut a few things, first it appears the Ammark draft controller isnt working, it never lowered the arm down.Ģnd, the temp/pressure gauge on the top of the wood boiler I dont think is reading temp accurately. Its a Marathon Logwood conventional unit. Hi All we gave the wood boiler a try this morning, I turned the oil boiler off last night and fired the wood boiler up at about 8AM. Lower case Roman numerals are often seen as page numbers for materials prefatory to the beginning of the main body of a work.įor information about number names in English, see Appendix:English numerals. However, it is possible to use lower case letters: i, v, x, l, c, d and m. Roman numerals are essentially known as upper case letters: I, V, X, L, C, D and M. 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